Brassiere



I. PILOT BRIASSIIERE Filed Aug. 6, 1935 Patented June 30, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFlcE BRASSIERE Israel Pilot, New York, N. Y. Application August 6, 1935, Serial No. 34,992

12 Claims.

known as a brassiere.

One important object of the invention is to provide" an improved construction of the bust supporting parts in a brassiere.

A second important object of the invention is to provide a brassire having improved means means being of reinforced material and having supporting connection with the upper edge of "the garment.

A third important object of this invention is to provide a novel arrangement of brassiere having improved bust supporting portions, each having a reinforcing and supporting tape adapted to extend around the lower part of the base of a breast and up to the upper edge of the garment.

A fourth important object of the invention is to provide a brassire which while having all the advantages which are adherent to the cutting of the upper portion of the brassiere pocket on a bias, provides for directing the figure or bust into the brassiere cups. As is well known, there is a tendency when the material is cut on the bias for the pendulous figure to go towards the center and under the arms, and means are provided in the brassiere of the present invention to obviate this disadvantage, said means also preferably functioning, although not necessarily, as lifting means to lift the pendulous figure, and especially figures where the ligments have been broken down. I

The invention in one of its preferred forms consists in a brassiere having a fabric body, including bust portions and side portions, the upper portions of the bust being cut on a bias, said bias cutting tending to push the bust portions away from the center of the brassiere and/or under the arms of the wearer, and means attached to the fabric body for counteracting said tendency of the bias cut upper bust portions.

In the preferred form of the invention, the lower parts of the' bust portions are stiffened.

Further, lifting means are provided for lifting the busts towards the center of the brassiere and/or preventing the busts from being directed under the arms of the wearer. With the above and other objects in view, the invention consists in general of certain novel details of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawing and specifically claimed.

In the accompanying drawing like characters of reference indicate like parts in the several views, and:-

Figure 1 is an elevation showing the outer side of one form of the invention;

Figure 2 is an elevation of such form but show- 5 ing the inner side;

Figure 3is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Figure 4 is a detail view showing a portion of the inner side of a slightly modified form of the invention;

Figure 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing a second modification;

Figure 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4, but showing a third modification;

Figure 7 is a view similar to Fig. 4, but showing 15 a fourth modification.

As shown in the accompanying drawing, the garment includes a pair of front or bust portions l0 and a pair of side portions ll. These parts are connected together either integrally or 20 by stitching and along the lines between the several parts the garment is reinforced by tapes l2 extending from the lower edgeof the garment to its upper edge. This part of the garment thus forms symmetrical halves at the sides of 25 the middle tape l2. The tapes l2- are stitched throughout their length to the fabric forming the main part of the garment by stitching l3 along each edge of each tape. The end portions II are of substantially trapezoidal shape with their major bases at the outer edges of the portions Ill. The lower edge l5 of the garment at each side extends substantially straight along the portion II and about half way of the adjacent portion Ill from which point it curves upwardly to the center line-between the two portions Ill. The upper edge l6 of each side of the garment inclines from its outer end along a sinuous line to a point substantially vertical above the center of the wearers bust and then slants down to the center line between the portions l0. Both of these edges are bound with tape ll securely stitched along said edges. Shoulder straps I 8 each have one end attached to the respective high point of the upper edge and its other end attached to one end of an elastic tape l9 which has its other end attached to the upper edge l8 near the outer end of the respective part II. To the outer end of one part II is'attached an elastic tape 20v having eyes 2| on its free end and the may extend from the center of the garment outwardly as at 23 in Figs. 1 to 3 or from the outer parts of the portions i0 inwardly as at 24 in Figs. 4 to 7. These darts are so arranged as to cause the portions III to conform closely to the wearer's busts when the garment is in use.

Referring now to the form shown in Figs. 1 to 3, the lower central part of each portion I0 is provided with a lining 25 between which and the outer fabric of the garment there is interposed a stiffener 26 of buckram or other suitable material. Reinforcing and lifting tapes 21 extend along the side edges of these linings and are curved inwardly to meet the upper edge of the garment at the points of attachment of the shoulder straps l3. 'These tapes are securely stitched to the body fabric and to the lining and buckram by stitching 28. Rows of stitching 25' extend from the lower edge of each lined portion divergingly upward and pass through the lining, stiffener and body fabric to securely unite these parts.

The form shown in Fig. 4 is but slightly different from that just described, the tapes 21 being replaced by tapes 29, which connect with the upper tape 11 at points which are spaced from the tape [8 but the construction is otherwise identical with the first form. In this case also, the tapes 29 are stitched throughout to the body fabric, lining and stiffener by stitching 30.

In the form shown in Fig. 5, the arrangement is the same, except that the tapes 29 are replaced by tapes 3| which are free from the body fabric between their points of attachment to the upper edge of the garment and the upper corners of the lining and stiffener, the lower parts of these tapes being stitched to the lining, stiffener and body fabric by stitching 32.

In the form shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the liner 32 is wider than the stiffener and the liner and stiffener are attached to the body fabric by the stitching 33, the liner being free from the body fabric between this stitching and its side edges which are prolonged upwards as at 34.

In Fig. 6 a pair of tapes 35 extend loosely from the point of attachment of the shoulder strap i8 down and along the side edges of the lining and are attached to these side edges by stitching 36, the stitching being free from the body fabric. A third tape 31 has its ends attached to the body fabric at the junction of the shoulder strap I8 with the body and extends down along the inner edges of the prolongations 34 and across the top of the stitchings 33. The tape 31 is stitched to the lining by stitching 38 and to the tapes 35 by stitching 39..

The form shown in Fig. '7 is but slightly different from that shown in Fig. 6, the tapes 40 and 4! differing only in that their upper ends are attached to the upper edge of the body in spaced relation to the shoulder strap l8.

, In each of the forms the tapes connected to the liners are preferably inelastic but, if stitched throughout to the body fabric as in Figs. 1 to 4, they may be of elastic webbing.

In all forms, it will be seen that the tapes on each side of each bust, together with the portions of the lower edge binding between their lower ends, form bust suspending loops inelastically-fltting around the basal portions of the lower halves of the bust so that, when worn, the shoulder straps pull upwardly on the busts from below.

- The stifiened lower sections of the portions Ill prevent the busts from sagging downwardly over the lower parts of these loops and the upward pull on these parts causes the busts to expand into the portions Ill above the stiifeners. This gives the busts a youthful form and prevents the discomforts and ailments due to sagging busts.

This brassiere does not have anything resembling pouches. The bust is supported by the actual cut of the brassiere and gives its direction to the bust by the two ribbons or tapes which extend from the shoulder strap to the underneath bust part of the brassiere. The underneath bust part has a stiffening material such as buckram plus an extra layer of a lining material which is stitched right through to the right side of the brassiere. This helps to increase the support from underneath and adds to the natural appearance of the figure when worn.

Y The purpose of this brassiere when worn is to give the pendulous figure a more youthful and natural appearance. It accomplishes thisin the following manner: Upon lifting the shoulder strap the lift is transmitted from the strap down through the ribbon bands directly to the ends of the stiffening material at the bottom of the bust section. This pull lifts the bust from the bottom into the top of the brassire and the top of the brassiere stretches on the bias and allows it to round out the upper section of the brassiere.

It is to be noted that the ribbons or tapes are stitched to the upper portion of the bust receiving pocket. These ribbons are preferably of a non-stretchable nature. If an elastic is used the result desired will not be attained since the elastic willstretch and not pull up the bottom of the bust. In other words, the elastic will stretch with the bias of the material instead of counter-acting the bias of the material. Elastic ribbons may be used providing the elastic ribbon is stitched to the upper portion of the bust pocket, since in that case the elastic will really become a nonelastic ribbon.

While this brassiere for the reasons herein has the ribbons stitched to the upper portion of the brassiere, it is within the spirit of the present invention to have the ribbons loose above the upper ends of the buckram. The reason it is more preferable to stitch these ribbons right through the bust section rather than suspend them loosely is to avoid inaccuracy in workmanship which in itself might destroy the smooth fitting qualities that are so necessary in this type of brassiere. In other words, if the ribbons are loose and the workman has cut them too short then there will be a tendency for the upper portion of the bust part to wrinkle.

Therefore, by stitching the ribbons to the upper portion of the bust part any tendency to wrinkle is avoided and this'is an important point, because the full desired effect may be destroyed by the wrinkling of the bust portion.

An important fashion angle of this brassiere is that it raises the pendulous figure and redistributes the flesh from the underneath part of the bust to the upper section of the brassiere. And in order to make room for the redistribution of that flesh, the upper section has been cut on a bias. This bias permits the surplus flesh to easily mould and round. This is very essential because the fashion trend has changed from the extreme point to the more modified curve.

While cutting the upper portion of the pocket on a bias is advantageous, there is a tendency when the material is cut on the bias for the pendulous figure to move away from center and under the arm and in order to obviate this the ribbons are provided as specified. These ribbons Materials used to extend the lift from the shoulder strap down to the underneath portion of the brassiere may be ribbon, or tape, or binding or any non-stretchable fabric. It has been noted that in the form shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the ribbons come to a common point on top of the pocket. While this is the preferred arrangement of the ribbons, it has been the spirit of the present invention to have the ribbons adjacent to the end of the brassiere strap.

When the ribbonsterminate at a distance from the end of the strap, then the lift from the shoulder strap is not extended directly to the underneath portion of the bust. Some part of that pull is lost by the garment stretching from the shoulder strap to the point where it has been attached. This means that the strap would have to be tightened a good deal more in order to have the ribbon perform its lifting duty.

There has thus been provided a simple and efficient device of the kind described and for the purpose specified.

It is obvious that changes may be made in the invention without departing from its material principles. It is not, therefore,,desired to confine the invention to the exact forms herein shown and described, but it is desired to include all forms which come within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:-

1. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearers bustsystiflening means stitched adjacent its top edge to the body garment for embracing the lower parts of the busts and.

- preventing the latter from sagging downwardly,

and lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof.

2. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of thebusts, and lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiifening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body and stitched to said side edges.

3. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of, the busts, lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body,

and stitching passing through the lower partsof the tapes and the stiffening means and body and through the upper part of the tapes and body.

4. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including,

shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearers busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, and lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiflening'means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, and

other lines of stitching extending divergingly upwards from the lower edge of the stiffening means and through the stiifening means and body.

5. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body and stitched to said side edges, and other lines of stitching extending divergingly upwards from the lower edge of the stiffening means and n through the stiffening means and body.

6. In a. garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearers busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, lifting tapes attached to the upper comers of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body, adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body, stitching passing through the lower parts of the tapes and the stiffening means and body and through the upper part of the tapes and body, and other lines of stitching extending divergingly upwards from the lower edge of the stiffening means and through the stiffening means and body.

. 7. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearers busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, and lifting tapes attached to the upper comers of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body and stitched to said side edges, said lifting tapes being free from the body between their on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means embracing the lower parts of the busts and preventing the latter from sagging downwardly, and lifting tapes attached to the upper corn rs of the stiffening means and extending upwardly there-- from, said lifting tapes beingattached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, at the Junctions of the shoulder straps and body, the body fabric 'above the stiffening means being bias cut.

9. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, and lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, the body fabric above the stiffening means being bias cut.

10. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearers bust, stiiifening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, and lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said lifting tapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body and stitched to said side edges, the body fabric above the stiffening means being bias cut.

11. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position 5 on a wearer, said shoulder, straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the centers of the wearer's busts, stiffening means for embracing the lower parts of the busts, lifting tapes attached to the upper corners of the stiffening means and extending upwardly therefrom, said lifting tapes being attached to the fabric body adjacent the upper edge thereof, said liftingtapes extending down along the side edges of the stiffening means to the lower edge of the body, and stitching passing through the lower parts of the tapes and the stiffening means and body and through the upper part of the tapes and body, the body fabric above the stiil'eningmeans being bias cut. I

12. In a garment, a fabric body including bust portions and side portions, means including shoulder straps for securing the body in position i on a wearer, said shoulder straps extending upwardly from points substantially above the cen- 25 ters of the wearers busts, stiffening means stitched adjacent its top edge to the body garment and embracing the lower parts of each of the busts to prevent the latter from sagging downwardly, and lifting tapes for transmitting the lifting force applied to each shoulder strap to each side of each of the stiffening means, the lifting tapes being attached to the body fabric adjacent its upper edge thereof, the body fabric above the stiffening means being bias cut.

ISRAEL PILOT. 

